The Rugosa Rose: A Permaculture Perspective

Rugosa Rose If you want to grow roses and practice permaculture the best choice for you is the Rugosa Rose (Rosa rugosa). This beautiful 3-6’ plant has attractive, bright green, crinkly foliage and produces copious 3-4” blossoms spring through fall. There are many cultivars. The flowers can be white, ivory, pink or purple. In late fall and winter this gem displays large, 1-inch, orange-red fruit.

 Permaculture is a design philosophy and practical approach to sustainable land use. It attempts to integrate perennial and annual plants, animals, human needs, water use, microclimate, and soil management into a highly productive, self-sustaining ecosystem. When it comes to plants permaculturists love those species that perform well, produce a lot and ask little.

 Rugosa Rose HipWhen you look at the permaculture principal called “Stacking Functions” (choosing plants with multiple uses) Rosa rugosa really produces. Like many other roses it has a lovely fragrance, provides nectar for bees and hummingbirds, and its petals can be used in pot-pourri.

A Rugosa Rose forms a dense thicket which provides shelter for birds and small animals. A mass of Rugosa Roses can also be used to screen out unsightly objects and can help control soil erosion. I think it is the fruit (rose hips) that really make this shrub a prize. Birds and other critters love to eat rose hips which are packed with vitamin C.  People can enjoy rose hips too. They can be eaten dried or fresh, although I wouldn’t use any that have been sprayed with pesticides. Rose hips are also used in jams, jellies, herbal teas and cordials.

Rugosa Rose The Rugosa Rose also shines when it comes to the “Plan for Personal Energy Efficiency” permaculture principal because it is tough, disease resistant, water wise, easy to maintain and easy to cultivate. 

 I’m a fan of this plant and I hope that you will consider it as an addition to your landscape.

Posted in Gardening Tips & Techniques, Permaculture, Roses, Sustainability | 1 Comment

Growing Roses Sustainably

Orangy-Peach Rose

By bildtankstelle.de

Can roses be grown sustainably?

I recently spoke with Janet Rude, the owner of Wedekin’s Nursery here in Sonoma and asked her about the sustainability of roses. We discussed pruning, irrigation, soil issues, fertilizers, and pest control.  The truth of the matter is that roses do require water; they do require external inputs and they do require care and maintenance. I think the better question for rose lovers is, “How do we grow roses as sustainably as possible?”

1)      Provide the best possible growing conditions so that your roses are least susceptible to diseases and pests.

  • Choose a location that gets 4-6 hours of sunlight a day minimum.
  • Provide the best growing medium possible – soil rich with organic matter that holds moisture and provides good drainage. Clay soil should be amended with compost.
  • Provide even moisture but do not over water.  Test the soil (with your fingers or a moisture meter) and make sure it doesn’t get boggy. Back off your irrigation schedule if your soil isn’t just moist before watering.

2)      Choose disease resistant cultivars. 

3)      Buy only healthy plants. If you buy bare root roses choose grade one plants.

4)      Aim for zero or little use of pesticide sprays. If you must spray for diseases use a copper sulfate that is acceptable in organic gardening. Note that even organic copper sulfate kills beneficial insects.

5)      Use organic, slow release natural fertilizers such as bone, blood and alfalfa meal.  Add the least amount of fertilizer you need. Experiment with this over the years.

6)      Give your roses enough room so they have air movement to deter fungal diseases and so you don’t have to prune them back as often.

7)      Be honest with yourself regarding how much energy you have to maintain your roses. Repeat blooming roses produce blossoms on new growth.  For best results you need to dead-head and cut them back regularly. Don’t plant more roses than your land and your water bill can responsibly handle.

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Susan’s Recommended Roses

Climbers:

All of these need a little support such as a wall with some trellis or a piece of deer wire tacked to it. If it is to be out in the open, I suggest building a small support fence behind it. None of these roses require pruning unless you want them to stay in scale. Taking out dead canes is a good idea, but otherwise they do not require much care.

 Cécile Brunner—[Climbing Polyantha] pale pink, small, classic rose shape. Few thorns and nice mid-green foliage. Blooms once in the spring–spectacularly.  This rose will easily cover a building, so it is good to put against an ugly wall or structure with a trellis of a strip of wire fencing for support. It can also be used on a fence where it can be shaped once in the summer with a hedge clippers to keep it in scale. No pests and no problems, this is one tough rose and can stand up to neglect once established.

  1. Mme. Alfred Carrier—[Tea-Noisette] this is a gorgeous, old-fashioned rose with beautiful, drooping, cabbage-style, white roses. It is a climber but with a fountain-y habit so it takes up a bit of space. Very few thorns, pretty mid-green foliage, and it blooms all the time. Pest and fungus free. Really stunning.
  2. Crépuscule—[Tea-Noisette] dark gold roses, blooms constantly and copiously. Pretty foliage with red canes. Very bush-like even though it’s a climber. Mine always looks like a Christmas tree with a ton of gold ornaments.
  3. Cocktail—[Floribunda Shrub/Climber] 5-petal flowers of bright red with a bright yellow center, quite eye-catching. Blooms all the time, but in the spring it’s just amazing. People would mistake the one I had in Oakland for bougainvillea because it had so many flowers on it.
  4. Altissimo—[Large-Flowered Climber] intense red 5-petal rose with flowers up to 4 inches across, like a hibiscus. A showstopper. Very thorny and a stiff climber with dark green shiny leaves. Put this in a place where no one will be walking by (good as natural barbed wire) and be careful when trimming.
  5. Veilchenblau—[Rambler] lavender-purple once bloomer with zillions of small roses. Apple-green foliage. Almost thornless. Can get huge like any rambler. Can get mildew if it does not get morning sun, but this is just a cosmetic problem and really doesn’t hurt the rose. This rose is basically a weed, so be sure you want it, but it is so pretty, and attractive, it’s a great backdrop plant on a garage or fence if you have a purple garden.
  6. Phyllis Bide—[Climbing Polyantha] covered with small peach and pink flowers, this small, stickery climber is stunning when it bloom and it blooms almost constantly. I have it on fences and places where the roses get very little care and it still looks great.

Shrubs and ground cover roses

  1. Sally Holmes—[Hybrid Musk] this fabulous rose can be seen all over the East Bay. It has large five-petal flowers of cream to pale pink developing from peach buds. It is always in bloom and once established, will put out huge panicles of 50 to 100 flowers on one cane like a bridal bouquet. Absolutely stunning! This rose can be trained as a climber, but without support, it will grow into a large fountain, so it can be used in the middle of a bed as well as a backdrop. It is absolutely tough and can take a variety of conditions.
  2. Chinensis Mutabilis—[China] this is another 5-petal rose whose flowers start out as a dark apricot and change slowly to dark rose pink. It has pretty china rose foliage which is long, narrow leaves and purplish canes. It blooms all the time. It can be grown as a climber or large shrub an may need a little support if you are using it as a shrub.
  3. White Meidiland—[Shrub (ground-cover)] this was one of the first “freeway roses” ever bred and it is still and excellent rose. Cal-Trans uses this tough, pest-free rose in freeway landscaping here in Northern California. It is a low-growing white rose with beautiful, dark-green foliage and it blooms constantly and heavily. The only drawback to this rose is that it does not drop its dead flowers, so that you do need to deadhead it from time to time.
  4. Baby Blanket—[Shrub (ground-cover)] classic, pale pink roses cover this pretty ground-cover rose almost year round. It is a great filler for a spot where you want a constant display of flowers. Under ideal conditions, it will grow slightly larger than White Meidiland—to a height of about 3’ and about 6’ in diameter.
  5. Rosa Rugosa Alba—[Rugosa] rugosa roses are a species of roses with very interesting crinkled leaves of mid/dark green. This one has a white flower of 5 to 10 petals that looks almost like a poppy. There is also a dark rose pink version of this rose. Rugosas are very tough and will stand up to almost any conditions. Most of them bloom all the time and are both attractive and problem free. I am recommending this one because I have had one for 20 years and it is still going strong, even though it is on a graft.

Older roses are—in general—much tougher and easier to grow than hybrid teas or floribundas. Polyanthas, Hybrid Musks, Teas, Tea-Noisettes, Rugosas and more are very easy to grow and care for. Also, roses grown on their own roots seem to do better in this area than grafted ones. These are going to be hard to find at local nurseries which only have room for the “latest hits” in roses. You may have to go online to find nurseries that will mail-order. I have bought many roses from Vintage Gardens in Sebastopol and Regan Roses in Fremont. Russian River Rose Company is in Healdsburg and does not mail order but is a lot of fun to visit. There are other mail-order nurseries online which carry old garden roses.

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Growing Old Roses

Noisette Rose - Madame Alfred Carriere

Madame Alfred Carriere by Stan Shebs

Most people would agree that roses are incredibly beautiful. There are legions of passionate rose lovers around the globe. They travel far and wide to admire rose gardens, salivate over rose books, and fill every nook and cranny of their garden with these visually delicious garden gems.

 But in some crowds roses have a terrible reputation. Black spot, rust, powdery mildew, aphids, thrips and nematodes are just a handful of the diseases that assault roses. Claims that roses require too much maintenance, too much water, too much fertilizer and too many pesticides are common. You can find the adjectives “persnickety”, “disease-ridden”, and “thirsty-beast” applied to roses in Alec Scott’s May 20th, 2012, San Francisco Chronicle article titled Roses starting to fade from American gardens.

 Scott’s article about the slow demise of the old-fashioned rose industry and the battle by rose lovers to save these garden beauties prompted my friend and client Susan to contact me requesting I write an encouraging article about roses.

 Susan is a passionate rose enthusiast, a consummate gardener, and my favorite go-to person regarding anything about roses. She designed and maintains a spectacular rose garden in the hills above Bennett Valley in Santa Rosa. 

 She  points out that roses are more than just beautiful.  They often smell delicious, can serve as a living barbed wire and are as tough as weeds.

 According to Susan people have a misconception about old roses and roses in general. Here in the west most heritage roses are now grown on their own rootstock rather than grafted. This makes them much less susceptible to nematodes and other pests and therefore much easier to maintain. In Susan’s experience roses don’t require that much water nor that much work.  Sure, like most landscape plants, roses do require some maintenance. Susan waters her roses three times a week for 15 minutes. She also cuts back some (not all) of her roses once a year, fertilizes once a year, and sprays them once a year with a copper sulfate approved for organic gardening.

 She also recommends the modern landscape roses that are bred to be disease resistant. Sally Holmes is a 10-15’ climber that repeatedly produces gorgeous ivory white and pink tinged flowers in clusters of 50-60 per stem. Altissimo, another climber displays striking 5” bright red blossoms. White Meidiland, a tough but lovely landscape rose that performs all summer long and requires little maintenance. 

 A couple of good resources for old roses are the web site helpmefindroses.com as well as the book 100 English Roses for the American Garden by Clair G Martin and Saxton Holt.

 Susan’s rose garden may be available to the public for tour this May (2013).  If so, I will let you know! 

If you are interested in learning more I have also posted an article titled “Susan’s Recommended Roses“. In the near future I will also be posting an article titled “Growing Roses Sustainably“  as well as “Roses: The Permaculture Perspective“.

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Five (More) February Garden Tips for Northern California – 2013

Five (More) February Garden Tips for Northern California -2013

1)     Weed your garden.  If you’ve neglected your weeding chores now is the time to do it. The ground is still soft and pulling your weeds is so much easier.

2)     Clean up and remove leaf litter, debris and old fruit from under your fruit trees. Disease pests often overwinter in these materials.

3)     Apply dormant spray to your fruit trees. Dormant sprays and dormant oils are typically applied in two or three applications with the last application usually done in February before the buds have formed. Dormant oils kill disease insects and their eggs. Choose a calm day with no imminent rain in the forecast. Use an organic spray available at your local nursery.

4)     Install planting bed edging such as bender board, brick or rock if you haven’t done so before.  If you don’t have an edge to your ornamental or edible planting beds and you have a lawn you will have noticed that the lawn wants to creep into this area. Install edging now while the ground is soft (but not soggy) and pliable.

5)     Harvest citrus fruit. Check your fruit for ripeness before you pick them.  They will not continue to ripen off the tree.

Last year I wrote another article on February garden tips.  These tips included advice on planting cool season veggies, bare root plants and frost tender plants. I also advised on structural winter tree pruning and planning your summer veggie garden.  To read this article go to the February Garden Tips section of my blog.

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The London Plane Tree – Trees of Sonoma Plaza Series – Part 1

Those of you who know me well have no doubt that I am absolutely in love with the town of Sonoma. I am particularly enamored with the central plaza and its ring of terrific restaurants, tasting rooms, historic buildings and appealing shops. I think the best part of the plaza is the park. And the best part of the park is all the magnificent trees.

 Did you know that there are over 40 species of trees in Sonoma Plaza? A tour of these trees is a tour of the world. They hail from Africa, South America, Europe, Asia, Australia and all parts of the U.S.  Nine of these species are native to California. These trees are delightful because they are so varied. They are huge and small, deciduous and evergreen, round, pointy and columnar, fragrant and stinky, old and young, medicinal, edible and drinkable. Now isn’t that exciting?

 Join me on this world tour. We are going to start in Europe.

 The London plane tree (Sycamore x acerifolia) is the most common tree in Sonoma Plaza.  There are dozens of them lining the diagonal walkways in the park. Contrary to their name London plane trees are not from London but from southern Europe and Western Asia.  They are large, hybridized, deciduous trees that can grow 70’ tall and 40’ wide. Their most distinctive characteristic is their beautiful, mottled, patchy, peeling bark that can look like camouflage. In summer they are even easier to identify with their large maple-like leaves and 1” fuzzy seed balls. These trees can live to be 300 years old.  Wander the plaza and see if you can find them.

 London plane trees are fantastic shade trees. They are excellent trees for avenues, parks and grove lands on large properties. If you plant one in a modest sized yard the tree will eventually dominate the garden. They will also produce a lot of leaf litter. Many people plant them in smaller yards and then prune them to keep them contained with a technique called pollarding. This is an appropriate technique but it must be done correctly and requires annual maintenance. If interested, you can read more about pollarding on my website in the blog section.

 Historical uses have been for timber, firewood, fodder, syrup, upset stomachs and dye.   

 

Posted in Arboriculture, Great Gardens, Parks, Nurseries and Landscapes, Landscape Design and Gardening, Trees of Sonoma Plaza Series | 7 Comments

The Do’s and Don’ts of Tree Pollarding

009

Pollarded tree with obvious knobs

Pollarding is a tree pruning technique that develops a framework of bare scaffold branches with a gnarly knob at the end of each branch.  Every spring numerous straight long and leafy sprouts emerge from these knobs to produce a dense, shady canopy. 

 As far as we know pollarding started in the Middle Ages in Europe in order to produce kindling for fire places and fodder for livestock.  Nowadays we pollard to manage the size of a tree that is too large for its space and/or to create a formal look in the landscape.

A good example of pollarding is the band shell area in San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park. It hosts dozens of pollarded sycamores or plane trees (Platanus x acerifolia). 

Pollard Sprouts Photo by Natubes-WikiMedia

Pollard Sprouts Photo by Natubes-WikiMedia

To be perfectly honest I’m not a fan of pollarding.  I do respect  the impact that a grove of pollarded trees has on a formal landscape. But it also pains me to see stunted versions of what could be beautiful, towering majestic trees. I’d prefer to see smaller trees chosen for smaller spaces.  And a formal garden can be created in so many other ways.

The biggest problem I have with pollarding is that it is so often done wrong. A properly pollarded tree can live a long and healthy life.  But it needs regular and appropriate maintenance.  

  1. The sprouts should be removed every one to two years. Pollard sprouts are weakly attached to the knob. If they are left on the tree for years and years the sprouts become thick and heavy. They become a potential hazard.
  2. The sprouts should be removed all the way back to the knob
    These sprouts have been left on the knob too many years and they haven't been pruned back to the original knob consistently

    These sprouts have been left on the knob too many years and they haven’t been pruned back to the original knob consistently

    In other words don’t leave little stubby branches on the knob. Cutting all the way back to the knob makes it easier for the tree to seal off the pruning wound and assists the tree in preserving important energy resources (carbohydrates) in the knob. This is because pollard knobs compartmentalize readily.
     
  3. Start the pollarding process when the tree is young – two or three years old.  Ideally you will never need to cut a limb or sprout that is more than 1” in diameter.  Over a few years a small knob will develop and expand. Each year the knob will grow larger and will harbor dormant buds, carbohydrates and wound calluses.
  4. Do not attempt to start the pollarding process on a mature tree that has not been pollarded before.  This is REALLY hard on a tree. Sprouts will emerge from below the cuts and it will look sort of like pollarding. But bluntly cutting mid-node through

    This tree has been topped. This is not pollarding

    Don’t do this. This tree has been topped. This is not pollarding

    thick and/or mature branches is called topping. Trees heal poorly from topping cuts. Topping cuts instigate branch decay due to the slow healing process and exposure to pathogens.  Topping cuts weaken the tree’s structure and can shorten the life of the tree.  How do you know if the tree has been pollarded before?  It has a knob.

  5. Choose trees that take well to pollarding. Sycamores, mulberries and horse chestnuts respond well.  You can find other species online by searching for “trees for pollarding”.
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Ten Fun Facts about Holiday Poinsettias

  1. Poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima) are native to Mexico and Central America.
    They are tropical perennial plants and grow as tall as 12’ tall in their native environment.
  2. They were prized by Aztec kings for their blood purity symbolism and used in winter celebrations. The sap (latex) was used to alleviate pain and treat skin & hair problems.
  3. Poinsettias were introduced to the U.S. by Joel Poinsett, the first Ambassador to Mexico.
  4.  The brilliant red flowers are actually modified leaves called bracts. We can now get poinsettia cultivars with white, cream, pink, peach & variegated bracts.
  5. Poinsettias are not poisonous. Don’t eat them though. They can cause stomach upset.
  6. Poinsettias became associated with Christmas in Mexico in the 1600s.
  7. Place poinsettias near a sunny window away from cool drafts and toasty heaters.  They prefer humid air and temperatures from 60F to 75F.
  8. Water them when their soil surface feels dry.  They should be kept moist not soggy.
  9. They will freeze outside.  If you place them outside in a sunny spot in the daytime please bring them in overnight.
  10. If you don’t want to throw away your poinsettias at the end of the season you can find plant care and re-blooming instructions online at websites like About.com. The process is meticulous and involved. Most people give up or forget about the plants throughout the year. Your next choice would be to compost them.

 

Posted in Gardening Tips & Techniques, Uncategorized | 1 Comment

Fall Planting Tips for Bulbs in Northern California

If you are a lover of daffodils, tulips, freesias and ranunculus you’ll know

Narcissus flowers

that bulb planting season is upon us. Our local nurseries have plenty of these spring flowering beauties in stock. Here are a few tips for those of you who haven’t played with bulbs before. Once you get started, you’ll be hooked for life.

 Choose quality bulbs. The bulbs should be chubby yet firm. Never choose bulbs that are spongy, withered or moldy. Larger bulbs mean more flowers. Larger bulbs are more expensive though.

 Chill your bulbs. Wrap your bulbs in newspaper and chill them in a cool, dark place for a few weeks to a month. A bottom refrigerator drawer is fine. Keep them away from over-ripening fruit though.

 Prepare your planting site. Choose a location that has sun to part sun and good drainage. Bulbs will rot in soggy soil. Consider raised beds or hillsides if you have heavy clay. Loosen and add compost to your native soil. There are many conflicting opinions regarding adding fertilizers and bone meal to the planting hole. Note that strong synthetic fertilizers can burn your bulbs. Stick with compost and you won’t have that problem.

 Wait for the soil to cool.  November is a good time to plant. The days are shorter and temperatures are cooling. Don’t wait until it gets too cold.  You want some roots to develop before we move into the heart of winter.

 Plant properly. Plant you bulbs with the pointy side up. For some bulbs this is obvious. If you can’t tell do your best. The bulb will figure out that it needs to grow upward. Planting depth depends on the type of bulb. Follow the instructions on the package but lean toward the deeper side if you are given a range. A general rule of thumb is to plant your bulb three times as deep as the length of the bulb.  Don’t water your bulbs at planting time. The seasonal rains will do the job.   

Consider the design impact. The flowers will have more impact if they are planted in clusters or masses rather than strung out in lines or scattered really far apart.

 

 


Posted in Design Ideas for the Garden, Gardening Tips & Techniques, Uncategorized | 3 Comments

Culinary & Medicinal Herb Spiral – A Sample Planting Plan

  • Ba Basil (edible leaves)
  • Bo Borage (edible flowers)
  • Ca Calendula (edible flowers)
  • CF California Fuchsia (native, not edible, habitat bees)
  • Chm Chamomile (leaves & flowers for medicinal tea)
  • Chv Chive (edible leaves and flowers)
  • Ci Cilantro (edible leaves and stems
  • Ech Echinacea (Coneflower, all parts medicinal for tinctures & teas)
  • Fn Fennel (edible seeds, leaves, & root, medicinal)
  • Lav Lavender (flowers added to dishes, sodas, medicinal flowers, habitat bees)
  • Lb Lemon Balm (put in pot, invasive, cold tea, medicinal)
  • Mg Marjoram (leaves added to dishes, cooked)
  • Mt Mint (put in pot, invasive, edible, tea)
  • Ns Nasturtium (edible leaves & flowers)
  • Or Oregano (leaves added to dishes, cooked)
  • Pa Parsley (edible leaves)
  • Rs Rosemary (leaves added to dishes, cooked)
  • Sav Savory (leaves added to soups, dishes, cooked)
  • Sg Sage (leaves added to dishes, cooked, medicinal)
  • Tar Tarragon (leaves added to dishes, cooked)
  • Th Thyme (leaves added to dishes, cooked, medicinal)

 

Posted in Design Ideas for the Garden, Herbs and Herbalism, Permaculture, Uncategorized | Leave a comment