These stakes are too tall
Improper tree staking can damage your trees. These inadvertent staking mistakes can: 1) create a weakened tree; 2) damage the bark; 3) open up inroads for disease and pests; 4) cause a tree to grow crookedly; and, 5) compromise your garden investment.
Let’s look at some common staking problems and what should be done about them. At the end of this article I’ll list some general tips about staking installation and maintenance.
The first photo on the right shows stakes that are too tall. The branches will rub up against the stakes and become abraded or scraped during windy conditions. Over time a serious wound can develop. A wound opening is an easy pathway for disease and insect penetration. Some of the tree’s energy is diverted toward healing the wound rather than growing strong and upright. These stakes should be cut back so the top of the stakes are not mixed in with the branches.
The second photo on the right shows a stake that is too close to the trunk.
This stake is tied too close to the trunk
A stake right up against the trunk will ultimately create a crooked tree because chemical/hormonal reactions in the tree will ultimately cause it to bend or arch away from the stake. The tightly tied stake doesn’t allow the tree to move (exercise) in the wind. Without that movement the tree won’t develop proper taper and strength. It’ll stay skinny and dependent on the stake. Additionally, the stake tie(s) restrict (or girdle) the trunk as the trunk grows and expands. This girdling inhibits the flow of nutrients, sugars and water within the tree. This stake should be untied and removed. If the tree actually needs a stake it should be placed about a foot or so away from the trunk outside the root ball and secured around the tree with flexible, non abrasive ties.
The horizontal indentation in the trunk is an example of girdling damage from a tree tie being left on the tree too long. Ouch!
This fourth photo exhibit a loose stake that has become useless.
This stake wasn't installed deeply enough. It is flopping around not doing its job.
The stake is not secure and is flopping around. It cannot do its job of supporting the tree. The stake can abrade (scrape) the bark and cause injury. Both stakes should be pounded into the ground more deeply so that they are secure in the soil. Be careful not to damage any roots. Note how the stake height is appropriate for the branching of this tree. The distance from the trunk looks appropriate too. Do not reinstall the stakes any closer to the trunk.
Our final photo (below) shows a long forgotten stake that should have been removed many years ago. The stakes and the horizontal cross bracing (hard to see in the photo) are only irritants to the tree. The tree has actually grown over and around the cross-bracing which is embedded inside the tree. Remove these stakes. Carefully saw off the cross-bracing.
This tree outgrew these forgotten stakes many years ago.
General tree staking tips:
1) Buy trees that are strong and sturdy. These are less likely to need staking at all and will save you time and money.
2) If a tree can stand on its own it doesn’t need a stake. You may still want to stake the tree if the tree is located in a windy location or on a steep slope, if the tree flops over and can’t hold itself upright, or if you believe the tree won’t initially root well in the soil.
3) Wean your trees off the stakes within one year (two years in really tough situations). If you don’t wean your trees from the stakes they won’t grow as strongly as they could otherwise.
4) Don’t leave the nursery stake on the tree.
5) Stakes should be placed outside the root ball, not up against the trunk.
6) Check your staking regularly to make sure it hasn’t come loose. Flopping stakes and ties can damage your tree. Make sure the ties aren’t too tight.
7) I found this nice tree planting and staking diagram on Urban Tree Farm’s web site
